Around Lake General Carrera – Part 1
From the not-quite-a-tourist blog.
I'm Isa, and the point of this word-jumble is to tell you a bit about the Aysén region and Carretera Austral (from Puerto Montt to Villa O'Higgins).
For the skeptics out there, know that I don't own this joint — I was invited to write about my travels, experience, and love for Patagonia, with the sole aim of making my stories give you the urge to come discover this land of gauchos, lambs, and lots and lots of chamamé.
That's how they convinced me... after an intense night of dancing to some unfamiliar rhythm, held firmly by the waist, I couldn't resist.
I'd gone to Coyhaique many years before, invited by my mother, who'd won a work trip as a sales prize. Thing is, the lady and her intense snoring didn't let me sleep a single night I was supposedly so comfortably spending at the hotel (the neighbors in the next room didn't get a wink either).
So my tours around the regional capital were basically me sleeping and opening one eye at each stop. As a result, all I remembered was a "cordero parado asado" at some ranch I never went back to.
We set off
So I bought tickets to Balmaceda — the same airport you should list as your destination — and set off with my little suitcase to meet this character and his region. Don't think I left without doing some googling first; I came with my plans roughly sketched out.
Probably like you, I had on my list the Marble Caves, Laguna San Rafael, Cerro Castillo, Queulat Hanging Glacier, and so many more. However, the stubborn Patagonian had his own plans, routes, and shortcuts that were obviously so much better than what I'd planned.
The lucky thing is that route is available right here at Turismo Baguales, and I promise you won't regret it.
We started from Coyhaique because we needed to fill up the truck, but for the past couple of years you can start straight from Cerro Castillo. The road has incredible scenery, with mountains covered in trees and snow depending on when you go.
That October, there was still snow, and the sky was completely blue — not a single cloud hinting at a change in weather. "Tourist's luck!" said the Patagonian. Thrilled, I got out halfway to walk in the snow.
On the road to Castillo, you can stop at various viewpoints — it's a National Park, so you must have great respect for the flora and fauna, and if you're as lucky as I was, you might see huemul deer grazing along the roadside; one might even cross the road, so always drive at the speed limit and pay attention. You came here to enjoy yourself! Soak in the scenery.
Stop and look at Laguna Chiguay. Formed by glacial processes, it's a natural refuge for waterfowl and endemic species of the region — it's beautiful, though over the years it has shrunk considerably in size.
Kilometers later, after entering the park, the road becomes even more striking, surrounded by mountains, rivers, and endless colors and textures, until you reach Portezuelo Ibáñez, the highest point of the road, where you begin descending toward Cerro Castillo. You can also stop there and see how the landscape has changed.
Then, before starting down the Cuesta del Diablo, you can stop at the viewpoint and get the best photo of the valley. A few curves further down you're about to reach the village of Cerro Castillo, and the mountain that gives it its name looms impressively and magnificently to your right.
In the village you'll find a Copec gas station, several little cafés, restaurants, and kiosks where you can grab a bite, and if you're lucky, you might catch the local artisans in Plaza del Pionero. I recommend looking for Café Campesino, where without fail you'll find brewed coffee, breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Generous, delicious dishes.
In the village you can spend the night at one of the hostels, campgrounds, or Airbnbs available, or keep going, depending on whether you're doing the trek to Laguna Cerro Castillo.
Turismo Baguales offers both options, depending on your fitness level and willingness to walk. In my case, decently overweight, I climbed up complaining like in one of those reels you've seen a thousand times, but once I got there, it was 100% worth every curse and complaint I let out along the way. The important thing is to go at your own pace, enjoying it, with the goal in sight.
If you don't want to make it to the top of the peak, no judgment here — there are more options! You can take a very relaxed walk to the Wall of Hands, where you'll see cave paintings thousands of years old and connect with those who lived in these harsh lands back when ice covered everything around you.
The village school museum is also available, built in 1955, holding local history along with archaeological and paleontological collections. Don't miss the view from up there of the unmissable Ibáñez River, on its way to the General Carrera Lake.
Whether or not you decide to stay, don't skip Cerro Castillo — part of traveling through Patagonia is understanding its people, sharing time with them, and of course enjoying the incredible landscapes and views.
Since I've already gone on for too long, I'll keep telling you in another post where I went next, what I saw, and what I did.
But if this little taste of the trip has already convinced you, you can reach out to the agency on WhatsApp and they'll put together a special trip just for you. I'm already planning my next one.
See you soon!
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